Innkeeper Notes

Perry's Lobster Shack

2008-07-17T06:49:00.005-04:00

Now you know I sacrifice a lot for the good of the guests. Last night, I had to go to Perry's Lobster Shack in Surry, down Newbury Neck Road. I could hardly continue to recommend it to guests without trying it myself, could I? I know I gush too much but... The sun setting, the almost full moon rising, the breeze mostly keeping the bugs at bay (and I was with Don, the inn's photographer and sometimes breakfast cook, who is apparently sweeter than I am. He got the bug bites. Remember this when dining al fresco with friends!). It's BYOB, and I brought a bottle of bubbles, Jules Bertier, a blanc de blanc we've been serving at the inn to great response. I've always been opposed to drinking out of paper cups so send guests to Perry's armed with the proper stemware. Don, his family, and I had pretty much what Perry offer--fresh lobster, mussels, and corn on the cob. So, so heavenly. Perry's a delight. Try to resist asking him the obvious questions--here's the answers to help you: he and his wife have been doing it for about ten years, yes, they do live in the little building all summer long, yes, he is here seven days a week, no, he doesn't advertise much (he doesn't want people to have to wait too long for one of the three picnic tables on his pier), no, he doesn't make the ice cream sandwiches but he buys then from a farm which makes the ice cream from milk from their cows, the corn is only local during the season but he can tell you where it's from (and it was soooooo good. Next time, I'm going to be piggy and order two or three or four ears). The moonrise photo was the view from our table!

We've just made it easier for you to have a game of tennis at the courts right across the street. We now have a supply of great rackets and balls for you to use. The courts are public, first-come, first-serve (I am ridiculously amused by puns). And, just like climbing Blue Hill Mountain--exercise means you can have a bigger lobster at Perry's and more dessert or an extra afternoon treat at the inn. Treats at the inn the other day were chocolate chocolate chip cookies, yesterday a plum cake, today? Who knows--something delightful, for sure. If you were here, you would know.

Speaking of being here, it breaks my heart when you call for reservations and we have no room for you, especially returning guests. I always wish I could just make another room, like we make another plate of canapes during hors d'oeuvres when we need to. The fall is a great to visit Maine and we do still have rooms for the Foliage, Food and Wine Festival, October 16-19, always a magical weekend of great wines and food and fall walks and the smell of woodsmoke from the fireplace in the parlor.

And, happy anniversary to me and the inn! Today marks one year since I took the title, Sarah Pebworth, innkeeper at the Blue Hill Inn. Thank you for a fabulous, wondrous year!

Fishermen's Family Fun Day

2008-07-11T10:43:00.003-04:00

Have you ever watched a cod fish relay? Ever tried to row a boat blindfolded, depending on the navigations of your sighted sternman? Is your fish face prize-worthy? July in Stonington brings an opportunity to try or watch all of these and more (there's live music, knot tying, and rope splicing, too). July 20 is the 19th annual Fisherman's Family Fun Day. Louie, one of the waitstaff here at the inn, and I tried out our fish faces. Clearly, he wins. Strangely, we couldn't get others to join us.

If you need earlier entertainment, the Lobster Boat races are held July 13. Last year, 88 boats ran in 11 different classes including the lady skipper race, wooden boat race, and work boats under and over 24 feet.

July in the garden

2008-07-08T08:58:00.004-04:00

What to do with all the fresh strawberries I can't resist? Daiquiris! So far this week we've had two drink specials to accompany our wine list--mojitos as the mint in the garden is thriving and strawberry daiquiris. The evenings have been so delicious we've been enjoying drinks and hors d'oeuvres in the garden. Last night the steel drum band played in the town park, just two blocks from the inn. Live music, the water in the bay, the moon coming on... I hope your July has been as summery and lovely.

On your way to Blue Hill, you could stop in Yarmouth and meet Eartha, a three-story tall scale model of our planet. Eartha, the world's largest revolving/rotating globe, awaits your visit at the DeLorme company.

Talented Guests

2008-07-03T21:58:00.004-04:00

I've always said I have the nicest guests. I also have the most talented. I had the nicest time with guests Carol and Carlton during hors d'oeuvres in the garden the other night but I wasn't able to be here to say goodbye when they checked out this morning. Carol left me the most beautiful card. She makes etchings, but also quilts pieces of her work together in collages. Carlton, meanwhile, is taking photographs and doing interesting things with color. You can get to know them better at their website (or by visiting them in Connecticut before Christmas to pick up a tree).

July!

2008-07-01T11:28:00.007-04:00

Barbara, of Gallery 66, loves sheep as much as I do. She also likes cows and one of her compilation works is hanging in the Chamber office in Blue Hill. You wouldn't want to miss going to the gallery proper, though, as other artists have work there, including Margaret Whalen, whose fabulous October Wine, Food and Foliage poster image will adorn the area in the fall.

One of the most beguiling features of the Blue Hill Inn is its in-town location. Guests can enjoy a sparkling blueberry cocktail at the inn during our hors d’oeuvres hour and then walk to a lovely dinner and not worry about having to drive home after a nice bottle of wine.

Kneisel Hall is also within walking distance of the inn but the last little bit is uphill and I wanted to walk there again thinking about our guests to see what they might think. So off I went to the Sunday afternoon program of Beethoven's sonata for cello and piano in G minor, Op. 5, No. 2; Kodaly's duo of violin and cello, Op. 7; and Faure's piano quartet No. 2 in G minor, Op. 45. Jane Coop, one of Canada's leading pianists; Jerry Grossman, principal cellist with the Metropolitan Opera Orchestra; and violinist Laurie Smukler, professor at the Conservatory of Music at Purchase College (SUNY) were among the performers. Magic!

Kneisel Hall, the Bagaduce Lending Library and the Blue Hill Inn are all touted in 1,000 Places to See in the U.S.A. and Canada Before You Die.The three institutions are raffling off prizes this summer in celebration. If you'd like to enter and you won't be in town, let me know and I can put your information in the raffle bowl.

Kneisel Hall Chamber Music Festival can trace its origins to 1902 when Franz Kneisel, founder of the first professional string quartet in America, began bringing students to Maine for summer study. It is the oldest summer chamber music programs in the United States--and walking distance from the inn! Under the artistic direction of pianist Seymour Lipkin, the 2008 season runs through August 24 with concerts every weekend and many musical events during the week.

The lending library, under the current directorship of Susan Theriot, began in 1983. It is one of the world’s largest music libraries. And more music is being added all the time. Their collection includes over 2 million copies of printed scores and sheet music. Visitors can stop by to browse the collection and search for bargains in our sale bins. For the non-musical (such as myself), they have great note cards and sheet music with fabulous illustrations that are frame-worthy.

Louise Bourne stopped by with some postcards of her paintings--I love the feel of this one. Her gallery is a short drive from the inn.

I just found out that the Woodlawn Museum, in Ellsworth, has a croquet lawn!

"Short blog entries are better." But I still have to tell you about the rock and roller who stayed here recently, and about picking berries from our very own strawberry patch (doesn't a very fresh, very local strawberry dipped in dark chocolate and finished with crushed pistachio nuts sound like the perfect pillow chocolate? If you were here tonight, that would be on your pillow!)

Cindy Bullens is the musician. She has a place on North Haven Island, which inspired her to collaborate on a musical, Islands: The Musical. After listening to a snippet of "Jellico Highway," I hard to order a CD from her new band, the Refugees. Enjoy!

Romance at the Blue Hill Inn

2008-06-28T13:24:00.003-04:00

I’m the sappiest of romantics, a believer in love at first sight, love lasting through decades and difficulties, and sweet gestures of affection. Apparently many of the guests here are, too. We’ve had guests stay here during their weddings, on honeymoons, and for anniversaries. Last week was our first proposal:

I had gotten a phone call from a gentleman making a reservation for himself and a lady friend who were coming up for the weekend. “Is there anything else I can help you with?” I asked in my innkeeper voice after we had settled on a room and the dates.

“I’m planning on proposing to her,” he said.

“Proposing!?!” I exclaimed, my heart aflutter.

We discussed wonderfully romantic plans—the Arborvine for a special dinner, a boatride on the schooner the Summertime, beautiful places to hike. I hung up and jumped up and down in the kitchen.

And so their reservation sheet had “shhhh” written in large letters and we staff had to ponder in private. After meeting them, we decided he was the sort who would have a ring with him before he proposed. We thought she would likely be very surprised. When they headed out for Deer Isle Saturday morning, we wondered if the ring were in his backpack.

What we didn’t know is that he had his bagpipes (bagpipes!) in his backpack (and he did have a ring tucked away, too)! “With a name like O’Shea, what did you expect?” he explained later.

And so after their sail, they hiked out to Barred Island. He serenaded her and then surprised her with a beautiful question and a lovely ring.

Did she say yes?

Of course she said yes. You can see the aura of affection, tenderness, and sweetness when the two of them are together. Did we have fun getting him to introduce her as his fiancée? You bet we did! Are we still celebrating on their behalf? Yes, secure that true love lives on. Awwwww.

Congratulations, T and S!

The Glamorous Life of an Innkeeper

2008-06-28T06:07:00.007-04:00

If you ignore the fact that I’m writing this while sitting at the car repair shop, life as an innkeeper at the beginning of the 2008 season is gorgeous. Researching new restaurants and recipes and wines is a hard job, as they say, but someone has to do it and on behalf of you, I’ve stepped up.

Most recently, a friend Cara and I met at Three Tides in Belfast. People have been telling me for months to go there, but had described it as a martini bar. Not being a huge martini fan, I didn’t make it a priority. Big mistake. Back in Wisconsin, along the Mississippi, casual summer bars pop up along the riverbanks so boaters have destinations. Three Tidesreminded me of that, but with a fabulous Maine twist—a lobster pound right next door. Right on the water, you know the seafood they serve is fresh fresh fresh. And, and!, they brew their own beers! They have eight on their list right now and are developing a ninth in honor of the Celtic Festival. Cara and I sacrificed on your behalf and ordered the beer sampler tray—five beer samples for $5. My favorite was “Wrecking Ball Baltic Porter,” big and bold and sweet with molasses. When they described the offerings as “craft brewed,” they’re serious. Two are on nitro, some are dry hopped, and some are wheat. Dazzled by their choice of bubbly wines, I had to save sampling the Maine organic blueberry vodka for next time. Lest you think it’s just a bar, let me tell you about the delicious pear and goat cheese salad (pine nuts make a dish, don’t you think?). We also had mushrooms stuffed with crabmeat, artichoke dip with crostini, and an amazing carrot cake with a caramel filing (Cara is a great dining companion—she’s enthusiastic about drinking bubbly and leaves 99% of the dessert to me!). The great selections of food and drink and the magic location right on the water would be enough to warrant a swooning recommendation but there’s more! We ate our dinner on an outdoor deck, and then moved down to waterfront, fireside seats. And, Three Tides has the best, coolest bathrooms (well, the ladies room, anyway) this side of Francine’s in Camden. Owners David and Sarah are marvelously friendly, as all the staff seem to be.
I also had lunch recently, at the Cockatoo, on my way to hike to Barred Island (my favorite place in the whole world, as you know). My friend Sue was visiting from Brunswick, Maine, delivering a set of brandy snifters (note to self: sample brandies). I’m a sucker for a homemade French fry and the Cockatoo delivered. The view is the best ever plus you can hear the fog horn from Mark Island lighthouse. Pure Maine bliss—and that was without trying their lobster roll, which is fresh cooked and full of butter but no mayonnaise. I’ll try one next time and let you know.

This is my first spring at the inn and I’m marveling as each new season—not spring, summer, and fall, but the tiny seasons in among them like firefly season. This beautiful painting is by Robin Street-Morris. It's titled Firefly Watching II. You can call them lightening bugs. If you live in the big city, I’m guessing you haven’t seen them this plentiful since you were a kid. And on a clear night, the backyard is full of twinkling lights and so’s the sky. This is Maine in late June.

Lupine and Lilacs!

2008-06-12T20:08:00.004-04:00

And kayaking! I had some friends come visiting from western Mass. and we rented kayaks from the Activity Shop, right here in Blue Hill, and went kayaking in the bay. Gayle and Dana got us set up with boats, life jackets, and information about where to go and how to be safe. We were a mixed crew with a variety of experience and the bay was a great place to paddle. We stayed fairly close to the shoreline and even got out on an island for a stretch.

So much to do this summer. A volunteer from the Jonathan Fisher House stopped by with information about the Antique Show, held at the fairgrounds Aug. 16. The Fisher House was designed and built by Fisher in 1814. He was the town's first minister and a very handy man--he made most of his own furniture and was an accomplished painter and writer. The house is open Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays in July and August.

The Schoodic Arts Festival is July 28-Aug. 10 this year and the line up of activities looks great.

And the Lupine Festival is June 20-22. How about a schooner trip? An airplane ride? Art? Music? Crafts? Eagle watching? I love a festival with a bit of everything. And the maps show where to spot big stands of wild lupine.

I'm leaving the inn in Assistant Innkeeper Maura's capable hands this week as I head to the Rusticator Restaurant at the Oakland House. The Littlefields are collaborating with Rich Hanson, from Cleonice--I have no doubts the results will be astounding. The location is gorgeous and Rich is an amazing chef. Again and again, guests tell me how pleased they are with the choice of restaurants in this area.

The newlyweds, who had been with us three nights, just checked out today, pink cheeked from a hike on Barred Island and sitting at the new deck at Lily's in Stonington yesterday. I mentioned the inn's game shelf didn't have a cribbage board yet--they bought one for us and said they'd play with me next year. So sweet!

We've been taking some photos for various ads (by "we" I mean Don Radovich of Downeast Dimensions). This is room 10, one of our first floor rooms with a fireplace.

And have I mentioned the tarts?! Matt is making these amazing fruit tarts with fresh strawberries or apple. Good thing Blue Hill Mountain is such a great hike.

Have you heard of the Maine Birding Trail? Check out this great birding resource. A guest from Florida told me about it.

I hope your June is going well, too, and that you'll visit us soon.

The opening of the inn for 2008

2008-05-23T07:43:00.006-04:00

The magic of it all continues. The lilacs opened just as the inn did. Beautiful, fragrant, and purple, they are a full week earlier than most around here. Every day I wonder around the garden to see what's come up and marvel at it all.

Lupines are just beginning to flower in the warmest spots, on schedule for the lupine festival, June 20-22, on Deer Isle.

We've had guests in from England--Wayne, Sally, Kerry, and Jazz; Italy; and Canada, as well as Georgia, Wisconsin, Michigan, Massachusetts, and even Maine. As I tell my Wisconsin guests, go visit my brother's place in Cassville, WI, Whitetail Bluff Camp and Resort, and tell him his sister sent you and said to put your drink on her tab.

Barbara and Bridget, up from Natchez, Mississippi, needed a ride into Stonington so I offered to take them and, shucks, I ended up kayaking with them at Old Quarry Ocean Adventures. We had a perfect Maine day to be out on the water. We toured around Camp Island, Devil's Half Acre--where we stopped for lunch and met some clammers--and Grog Island. We saw bald eagles and a baby eagle in a big nest, double-crested cormorants, and black guillemots. We saw at least one rock full of sunning seals. So often a bobbing seal turns out to be a buoy instead. Rj Miller and Linda Miller kayaked with us. He's a photographer and she's an amazing paddler who, from the bow, kept their tandem kayak still and in a good position while he snapped shots. We--our guide, Brigid, the Mississippi gals, and I--got to be kayaking models. Those of us in wetsuits were happy to have skirts on. The Millers are from Wisconsin so I got a nice fill of the Midwest accent and conversation with people who know what delight a fried cheesecurd is (is putting pictures of fried cheese on your blog a silly thing to do? They aren't very photogenic, are they?).

The eggs in the nest by the Cape House door hatched! I've seen at least one little fuzzy head. I thought I'd give them all a few days and then try to sneak a photo with a zoom lens and a step ladder. Recent guests left me the nicest note: "This is one of the most charming cottages we've ever stayed in--complete with a nesting bird at the entryway!"

I can't believe I haven't told you this yet! All last summer guests would ask about the safe in the main parlor and I would say it didn't open and hadn't been opened in years and the combination was lost and we needed Geraldo to help us. Then! Matt, the grandson of the previous owners, Don and Mary Hartley, came back to work and mentioned that he knew the combination! I actually jumped up and down I was so excited. It turns out that Don had kept the combination in his wallet, which got picked one year. Fortunately for us, Matt had memorized the combination long before then when he was just a kid. We're going to keep our extra secret recipes in there.

We have so many sweet spots to enjoy in the garden. On a warm day it's the perfect place to bring iced tea and a cookie. Yesterday they were the browned sugar cookies, which used to be my favorite treat. Now Matt's been making tiny tarts--this week with fresh strawberries. And guests are loving the crabmeat quiche...

The local land trusts

2008-05-19T19:24:00.003-04:00

I tell all our guests to visit Barred Island (shown here), Blue Hill Mountain, the Tennis Preserve, Caterpillar Hill, the Good Life Center, Settlement Quarry. What do all these places have in common? Island Heritage Trust, on Deer Isle, or the Blue Hill Heritage Trust have helped protect them in some way. These organizations are dedicated to conserving land that makes this area what it is, places that are "essential to the character" of Downeast Maine.

The Blue Hill Inn is offering guests a deal--when you visit us, from June 1-June 20, and take part in the Land Trust Special, room rates are $125 a night, with $25 going to the local land trusts. Plus, the inn will match the donation so Island Heritage Trust and the Blue Hill Heritage Trust will receive twice the donations. We'll give you directions to our favorite spots and we'll all feel better knowing we've done our part to help protect them. Call us to make your reservation or for more details.

The inn opens May 21!

2008-05-10T11:10:00.004-04:00

Two eggs! Shannon, of Mountain View Painting, reported seeing two eggs in the nest at the Cape House. He has been very busy making the inn look fabulous--shutters are up, clapboards are washed and painted--the inn looks great. Tomorrow he'll be painting the front doors red. Spring is looking mighty good at the inn. This photo is looking out from the Cape House living room area onto the private deck, draped in willow tree.

One of the trees in the orchard is already flowering--I'm eager to see what type of apple this early bloomer produces. July will be my first full year as innkeeper here at the Blue Hill Inn so I'm still getting to know the yard.

The lovely hosts at the Hartstone Inn, Mary Jo Brink and Michael Salmon, invited innkeepers from around the area for a party. Michael is an amazing chef--we had a dinner of hors d'oeuvres, my favorite. You know someone special is in the kitchen when guests are raving about the grilled vegetables, not to mention the Thai beef salad, the chicken satay, the potstickers... For dessert, I had to try his truffles with pistachio nuts. If you're stopping in Camden on your way to Blue Hill, consider stopping off at the Hartstone, if just for a meal.

New assistant innkeepers and I took a field trip to Deer Isle to see Nervous Nellie's Jams and Jellies and to pick up some jam for the inn. What a fabulous playground of amazing sculpture (by husband Peter Beerits) all over the property. And the jams! You can try a wide selection on crackers or get a scone in the little, very colorful cafe, and enjoy it with lots of jam.

Do you remember the fabulous bread we have for morning toast? It’s from Blue Hill Hearth, Kathy’s bakery that shares space with the North Light Book Store about two blocks from here. Guests would sometimes happen in for one of her sandwiches or great pizza slices--or a decadent dessert--and Kathy would discover they were staying at the inn and send home the bread order with them! I saw Kathy at the grocery recently and we got talking about Earth Day. Turns out she and her husband have had solar panels for over 12 years.

I just started Man Bites Log, by Max Alexander. My favorite line so far describes a real Mainer: “They speak slowly but are hard to understand, and drive slower but are impossible to pass.” He lives in an area with many fewer curves—it’s the come-from-aways who dawdle around here, or maybe it’s just me.

Head-of-the-kitchen Matt has been busy preparing for our open house on Tuesday. Chocolate covered orange peel, red pepper tarts with feta and scallion, mini carrotcake cupcakes... Wish you were here.

Plenty of Live Music

2008-05-04T09:03:00.005-04:00

I’m always wishing you were here to be a part of all the great and crazy things the inn and Blue Hill have to offer. This weekend is the 18th Annual Pan New England Steelband Festival—there are pan players everywhere and I went out last night to dance to Steel Sensation. Today bands from all over New England play a range of music in a five-hour panorama concert. All summer long, our local pan band plays benefit concerts and street dances.

On the way home I stopped in at the monthly contra dance—who was filling in but Gary Bushee, an old friend who helped out at the inn last summer. Perhaps you had the singing waiter if you came to the Blue Hill Inn last fall.

I didn’t admit just how long I left the Christmas wreathes up. I did remove the red parts, telling myself that that made them just decorative wreathes, but eventually down they came. I hate that bare look and had been keeping an eye out for something nice to put in their places, especially at the Cape House. I recently found a lovely wreath made of twigs at Silkweeds in Searsport. Apparently a pair of birds find it lovely as well. At first I thought the mess of broken twigs beneath the wreath was from a bird pulling out bits for its nest—this morning I realized the wreath was home to the nest. It’s the first time I’ve wished there were fewer guests coming to the Cape House! I hope the happy couple either like the idea of living in a lively place or decide to relocate to a nearby tree. The irony of May being our benefit for Habitat for Humanity wasn’t lost on me either.

The magnolia is still looking so pretty. The willow overhanging the Cape House deck is leafing out as are most of the bushes around the yard. The tulips are plump but not blooming yet. In the herb garden, Jean, the handywoman (who is just back from a winter gardening in Hawaii!), unburied the mint and lavendar. She and I have big fruity dreams—raspberry bushes, blueberry bushes, a peach tree. I do need to confess that, though I live in a low-bush blueberry state, I prefer, dare I say it, the high bush variety. In my defense, high-bush berries are much easier to pick—you don’t have to bend over and rake them like the lowbush. They can be huge—big as a quarter—and they’re sweet. Give me a year or two and we can have taste tests and you can see which you prefer. What I do like better about the Maine blueberries is the gorgeous color in the fall. Scarlet blueberry barrens… Photographer Terrell Lester does a great job catching those.

Now I’m off to breakfast at Chase’s Daily in Belfast.

My spring reading

2008-04-19T10:28:00.002-04:00

Have you decided you can trust my judgment in books yet? I hope so. I have another to suggest—I’m only partway through but it took unseasonably warm weather and full on sunshine to get me to put it down this morning. Mary Chase, an author born in Blue Hill, wrote extensively about Maine and the Blue Hill area. In her book, Mary Peters, she writes about a seafaring family. Written in 1934, the book chronicles the change from sailing ships to steam powered and the effect on the coastal towns. Islandport Press reissued it in 2005 so you can find it. Check our their other listings, as well, if you need a Maine fix before you get here.

The kitchen garden is starting to come up--we'll have eggs with herbs from the garden from day 1! Matt, head of the kitchen, will be back in town soon to get set up for the season. Here he is last year, serious at the Garland stove.

It's almost time for the bird festivals! A friend participated in an owl count a few weeks ago--she was looking a bit sleepy as she told me about her middle-of-the-night adventure, listening to the sounds of nature in the dark. On Deer Isle, Wings, Waves, and Woods is held May 16-18. In Cobscook Bay, the festival is May 23-26. On Mount Desert Island, their 10th annual festival is June 12-15. You can see what local birders are seeing and hearing at this link.

We have all been grinning like fools over the weather. At the inn, we’ve gotten a good bit of outdoor work done--a powerwashing of the inn's brick end has it looking fabulous.

Spring!

2008-03-27T12:42:00.009-04:00

We've had day after day of sunny weather and that lovely smell of spring, enough to get a person excited about spring cleaning. The crocuses are coming up--never mind that the twinkle lights I put in the bushes in the winter remain stuck in icy piles in places--it's spring! The apple tree pruners came by and tidied up the orchard. We should have huge apples and pears this year. I’m not sure when the cider pressing will be but I’ll let you know.

Guests have been in and out of the Cape House, checking on properties, working in the area, visiting family. A couple from Europe stayed almost a week--"This will be a great memory that we can bring back home to Sweden!" Soon we'll have members of the Western Mountain Trash Can Band staying as they take part in the 2008 New England Pan Festival here in Blue Hill.

I pass North Country Textiles as I walk to the post office. They, like the crocus, are blooming--gorgeous rugs drape the railing and, inside, the gallery is filling up with yummy new stock.

I just finished a Maine-based book, Bride Island, by Alexandra Enders. She quotes Sarah Orne Jewett from the Country of the Pointed Firs (You can visit Sarah Orne Jewett's home in South Berwick when you're in Maine next!): "In the life of each of us, I said to myself, there is a place remote and islanded, and given to endless regret or secret happiness." Remote and islanded, endless regret or secret happiness…

Enders also quotes Dorothy Simpson, an author I'm unfamiliar with, from The Maine Islands: "If a man is lucky enough to possess a whole island--even if it's the merest speck of rock and turf, and a few spruce trees and raspberry bushes--but can only spend a few summer weeks on it, spiritually he is an islander all year round. This is particularly true of children who have had island summers. They become islanders for life at an early age." I was especially struck by this as I had just taken a reservation from a woman who knew Maine from a few weeks on an island each summer. She said that even now when she thinks back to her childhood summers, the memories are always from those weeks.

I am mourning the passing of Lloyd Capen, whose book The Price of Clams I so enthusiastically wrote about in my New Year's entry. I regret not having told him in person how I adored his story.

Rain is forecast for the weekend so it will be indoor work—inventory and interviews. The raking of rocks from the yard will wait for the sun.

Spring?

2008-03-14T22:54:00.008-04:00

Perhaps not quite yet. Still, this middle season brings so many delights--like baby goats! Sunset Acres Farm will be having hundred of baby goats born now through the month of April and they're open for visiting and you can pat and hold the babies. Visiting hours are from 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. with milking time occurring in the evening. Sunset Acres Farms makes amazing goat cheese, which you've likely had if you've been here. We use it in omlettes and with Nervous Nellie's Hot Pepper Jelly and to stuff plum tomatoes...

So guess who's been nominated for a James Beard Award? Rich Hansen, chef and co-owner of Cleonice! And Brian Hill, chef of Camden's Francine, where everything is good but the butterscotch pudding is the best you'll ever have. And the team from Chase's Daily, in Belfast. Where, at the risk of repeating myself, everything is good but the fried potatoes are amazing. So don't worry about being well fed on your way here or once you arrive.

I always tell myself, when I'm working on my blog, "Fewer words, more pictures." But I read a lot and often want to share a lot of it with you. When a person buys something like an inn, the books on the shelves often convey, along with the high four poster beds and the silver sugar bowls and the sign out front. So all winter long I've been taking advantage of the books at the inn. Last night I picked up Lincoln Colcord's Sea Stories--From Searsport to Singapore. Colcord was born in 1883, in his father's sailing vessel going around Cape Horn. But he was a son of Searsport, Maine, and in 1936 helped to found the Penobscot Marine Museum in Searsport (add it to your list of places to visit!). According to the Fishermen's Voice, "In the 1880’s, Searsport supplied more than 10 percent of America’s sea captains. At that time, in a town of 2,000 people, 77 of them were in command of American sailing ships." Here's a great picture of his father, one of those captains.

In the Drifting Diamond, Colcord writes, "For us who are sailors, the sensations of a landsman at sea are hard to understand. Wind and water are our familiar elements; a ship is our home, the field of our endeavors, the companion of our days. The things of the sea are what we love and know--are often all we know. A seaman lying in his bunk, can tell at once when his ship is carrying too much sail; a feeling is communicated to him, a feeling that's an instinct in the sense that it's the sum and lesson of all past experience. And in a storm, he knows by the laboring of the deck under his feet, exactly how it is with his vessel; he can measure the degree of her effort to a hair. But the poor landsman is separated from the knowledge by a wide and impassable gulf. An ordinary big wave seems monstrous to him, as he compares it with the calm of the day before; and when the masts once lean from the perpendicular, it's as bad as if she'd put her scuppers under. In a storm, he goes thorough agonies of needless apprehension, as if every wave and every squall were to be his last. Yes, actually!--I've watched 'em. You have no conception of what a man suffers. His life has been bounded by the firm land--by fields that spread without motion, by hills that stand eternally changeless, by houses that wouldn't dream of leaping across the streets they stand on, by floors that never in the course of their orderly existence have tipped up on one side and down on the other." Mind you, they are in the midst of a typhoon at this point in the story, points out landlubbing Sarah.

Today will be sunny and 40 degrees here, but to quote Winnie- the-Pooh, "The more it snows, tiddly pom, the more it goes, tiddly pom, on snowing." I won't be putting the snowshovels away just yet but the apple tress will be pruned soon and it's beginning to smell like spring.

Grilled Muffins...

2008-02-23T07:04:00.007-05:00

Another gorgeous snowstorm, then another foot of snow. We have had the best snow this winter, some of the best snow we've had for years.

I am still amazed I have somehow ended up living in a place where I know I have to take my camera or I’ll be sorry. My dentist, Dr. Wendy, has her office in Stonington. If I’m lucky I time it right so I can eat at the Harbor Café before or after. I’ve always loved the small place but then they shellacked marine charts to the tabletops! What a great idea. I sat at chart #103 and had a close look at the waters surrounding Castine. And, yes, I had a grilled blueberry muffin, you already know one of my weaknesses is a grilled muffin... And bacon. One deserves a treat on a going-to-the-dentist-day, don’t you think?

I recently went to the Morning Moon, in Brooklin, Boatbuilding Capital of the World, for breakfast. They had a very lemon muffin, with pecans--grilled, of course--that was delightful. I saw Chip, from the Brooklin Inn, just down the street, eating there as well.

So then on a recent Sunday, I went to the Brooklin Inn for brunch. It's a dirty job, trying all these places for you, but someone has to do it. I do love eggs benedict and I'm afraid the Brooklin Inn's are so good I may have to indulge every single Sunday... (With thanks to Dwight for the sign photo, http://www.dpeck.info)

Brooklin, with what I refer to as Bob's Boatyard, and other fabulous spots, like the tiny handful of shops including Blossom Studio, is a must visit for every traveler up this way. I saw Rich Hilsinger, the director of the WoodenBoat School, at the Wine Shop's monthly tasting recently. Just because I'll be too busy this summer to take a class, doesn't mean you shouldn't. The school is fabulous. I took Elements of Seamanship, with Jane Ahlfield and Gretchen Snyder the summer I turned 40 and had a great time. We learned so much in a week and had a great time. The waterfront is the best you'll find along the coast. They have so many different courses--building all types of wooden boats, carving, seamanship, sailmaking, rigging, oil painting...

And I didn't tell you what I did on February 14, did I? Valentine’s Day found lucky me at the Arborvine, celebrating Margaret’s birthday with Barbara and Sissy. I met Margaret through the Blue Hill Foliage, Food, and Wine Fest, as her artwork was used for the poster and it's Barbara who runs Gallery 66. I had swordfish with an orange miso sauce—so delicious. I walked up from the inn under stars and a moon. Margaret is my second friend who turned 77 in the last year, Dr. Charlotte on Deer Isle being the first. Seems to me that’s about the luckiest year ever.

Wool blankets, rain slickers, and marathoners

2008-02-17T21:24:00.006-05:00

When I was six, we were living on a farm in the state of Washington and all I wanted for my birthday was a sheep. Even then, or perhaps especially then, I was spoiled rotten and got what I wanted. I named her Kate Greenway and have adored sheep and all things ovine ever since.

Which is why I stopped at the Swans Island store on my way to Rockland recently. I first felt their blankets' loveliness at Paradise City Arts Festival in Northampton, MA, a scrumptious art fest, should you ever be out that way. Turns out in the summer, the Swans Island folks have sheep right there on Route 1! In February they don't but they do have time to give a tour, showing off the dying room (enclosed but with a pebbled floor for drainage, which is very cool), the room with the big looms, and the gallery of blankets, throws, and pillows. They even make fancy bags for storing the blankets (with cedar sides to help keep moths away). It's a little confusing because much of the wool for the winter weight blankets comes from sheep living on Nash Island. The reason for calling the company Swans Island is that that is where the founders, umm, founded it.

Potholes vs. Frost Heaves
I'm not sure why some areas tend toward one and not the other but we are certainly in the frost heave part of the world.
Have you ever heard of frost creep? Me neither. What about frost law? We'd call it a load limit or road restriction.

If you're eager to start your 2008 charitable giving, I have a great idea for you. I have this perfectly nice friend, Joe Greenberg (of the Left Bank Cafe Greenbergs), who I have known since 1988 and my days working at the Cafe in Blue Hill. Well, I thought he was perfectly nice. Turns out he's crazy. I say that because he's in training to run a marathon June 1 in San Diego as part of a fundraiser for the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society. No offense to Joe, but when I saw him last, he was not looking like a marathoner! So I have been inspired to donate big and try to get others to, too, because Joe running a marathon is crazy.
Crazy. Like me running a marathon... Or SpongeBob... You can check out his site. When I last spoke to him, he was up to 8-mile runs and thinking it was pretty cool that a 5-mile run was already no biggie.

Have you been watching the crazy weather? On Monday we had a bring-out-the-rain-slicker-and funny-rubber-boots rainstorm. Since then, though, we've had sunshine and birds singing and Ken, the webmaster, says one of the geese laid an egg--spring must be right around the corner. I'm not sure how I'll recognize it here in Maine. When I lived in Western Mass, I would drive by not one but two sugar shacks on the way to work. I would love to see the billowing steam...

I'm so happy to be able to say, "Darn it! I missed the Polar Bear Dip again." The Bangor Daily News had some great photos of the swimmers.

No doldrums here

2008-02-06T21:11:00.000-05:00

I had the most fun inquiry today. Authur Will Azeperak emailed asking if the Blue Hill Inn has an attic. Turns out he is working on a scifi series, set in Blue Hill! Did you know Kurt Gödel stayed here in 1942? He was unquestionably the greatest logician of the 20th century, says Peter Suber. Suber's article mentions that Gödel walked along Parker Point Road, deep in thought, just as we do today. Gödel proved time travel had definite descriptive mathematical formulas, Azeperak said today. He will somehow be putting all this--and details about the inn--in the next book in his series.

I was on my own for dinner tonight and craving a burger. My favorite burger in town is at the Blue Moose. I bundled up and trudged down to the store to get a local paper and down to the Moose, where I lucked into a booth. But then the waitress broke the news to me: no hamburgers. No hamburgers?! Turns out one of the elementary school basketball teams had come in, hungry for burgers (just like me). So I had to put down the paper and peruse the menu. And then decide between an Asian sounding crepe or scallops with fava beans. I ended up ordering the scallops. And so I settled in to reading the paper, nibbling the perfect french bread, and sipping Spinyback's sauvignon blanc. Mike, who along with his wife, is the propietor, swung by my table. I wasn't alarmed as he often stops by to chat with guests. Tonight, however, he was delivering bad news--the scallop dish, ready to be delivered to my table, had been delivered to the floor. Alas! Did I want to wait for it to be made again or order something else? I stayed with the scallops and read more of the paper and enjoyed the house salad with a really nice vinagrette dressing. Everyone apologized for the delay but I was having a lovely time. And then came the scallops, which were so good--oodles of them broiled perfectly and surrounding peas and potatoes and corn and beans--so delicious. Had I not been forced by the lack of hamburger to venture there, I'd have missed them. Turns out the basketball players were in because they had lost every game but had been such good sports about it, their parents decided they deserved a treat. Their loss was my gain. I'll be back soon.

The Cure for Whatever Ails You

2008-01-28T19:35:00.001-05:00

I was T-shirt shopping at Merrill and Hinckley's, the little grocery store so convenient to the inn, with my friend Tracy, who is good natured and easy going about everything but, as it turns out, is very particular about which T-shirt she likes. I pulled out about every T-shirt they had hoping to find one she would wear. This one was not quite her but I loved it--maybe for my brother?--and had to get it. They also have a kid's shirt that says, "I'm a keepah" and has a lobster on it. I had to explain to Tracy that's what a fisherman would say about a lobster that was just the right size, not too large or too small.

The cure for the cold weather? Long underwear! I just got myself some black silk ones and I love them. You know it's Maine when "black silk" is not followed by "lingerie" but "long underwear"!

Last week I went to Castine to hear Bill Haviland speak about the Native American populations in this area. I picked up a map of a canoe route through the center of Deer Isle that was used between 2000 and 3000 years ago. How cool is that?! Bill has a book, Safe Passage to the Sea: An Ancient Canoe Route at Deer Isle, Maine, if you want to know more. I believe it's available through the Island Heritage Trust. And check out the other great things they have at their store--T-shirts with a Jill Hoy painting on them, books with gorgeous covers, a handsome cap.

I saw in the Ellsworth American that "locavore" was declared Word of the Year for 2007 by the New Oxford American Dictionary. The Blue Hill Inn is proud of its locavorism and 2008 will bring an expanded "foodscape" in the back yard and side garden.

Today was a whistling wind day at the inn, with the sign flapping. You hear more people talking about Jamaica. Not me, though. I got my long underwear.

O fickle Maine

2008-01-18T07:33:00.000-05:00

Last week I was in a convertible--with the top down (OK, I was bundled up but it was almost 50 degrees and full-on sunshine) and we could see grass everywhere and only a few snow piles hung around. Monday we got another 10 inches of snow, gorgeous powder.

The other day I went cross country skiing in East Blue Hill, and between the sun and the exercise, got down to one layer, in spite of temperatures in the low teens. Winter sports make all this weather so much fun. I'm on the lookout for inner tubes for sledding. I've taken quite a few reservations from folks in Florida--they tell me about the sunshine and the 70s, I tell them about fleece and shoveling. Guests coming in on the weekend were hoping to snowshoe but settled for hiking instead. I got out to Blue Hill Mountain, which was a bit icy (but the views are still great). Barred Island, down on Deer Isle, was more peaceful than ever. I had a yummy breakfast at the Blue Moose--so nice to be served!

I have to update the chowder debate--Molly, of Molly B Designs, had me over for supper the other night, a scrumptious chowder full of fish and scallops. Her secret ingredient? Smoked salmon! She begins by sautéing that with the onions and makes a bit of a roux.

I wanted to share some of my holiday mail with you. That huge fabulous boat I've gone on about more than once? Here she is! The Baldwins, from Texas, sent me this.

A delightful couple, the Engelbrechts, from Germany, sent me this photo, which Lothar took in the mirror of room 8. As I always say, I have the nicest guests!

I've made it easier to leave a comment here on my blog, though I always appreciate readers who take a moment to send me an email.

Happy New Year!

2008-01-01T08:49:00.000-05:00

The word for 2008 might be snow. We got about 8 inches yesterday and are expected to get up to 8 more today. Last night, for the New Year’s Eve celebration around town, the clouds moved on and the skies were clear and starry. In a free party given by the Peninsula Pan, we had live music in 11 venues—11!—all within walking distance of downtown. I suffer from a severe case of FMS so events like this are a challenge. “FMS?” you wonder. Fear of missing something! From standing room only at the Congregational Church for Noel Paul Stookey (of Peter, Paul, and Mary fame) to Jay and Bjorn Peterson performing at the library to various steel drum bands at the academy across the street from the inn, I couldn’t be everywhere at once. We also had humor with Joel McGraw (who used to work at my favorite boatyard in Brooklin), a magician at the MERI center (where we also got to check out their aquariums and wish a flounder and some lobsters a happy new year), and radio drama at the town hall.

Cabin fever hasn’t set in yet by any means, but I thought I’d mention a few books I’ve enjoyed lately. For a bit of nonfiction, I highly recommend The Price of Clams, by Lloyd Capen. He presents an intimate look at Deer Isle and the surrounding area from 1930-1943. I would love a book publisher to get a hold of this and print a new edition with more photos and a bigger map and well, just more. You can get a signed copy from Blue Hill Books. (And here's my plug for small, independently owned bookshops: buy from them.)

Linda Greenlaw has added a mystery to her growing list of titles: Slipknot is set in Maine, in “Green Haven” (seems a funny way to spell “Stonington” but you know how authors can be!) and is another must read for Maine lovers.

Joe Coomer's Pocketful of Names charmed me so much I bought it for everyone in my family and they’re still thanking me for it. His book, The Loop, is another favorite of mine. Based on these two, I bought everything he’s written that Nick carries at Blue Hill Books and will savor them throughout the winter. Have you heard of a literature map?
And I know I mentioned the Little Yellow Boatie, by Helen Sylvester in a previous blog but it’s sweet.

Turns out I waited too long to catch that Cadillac Mountain sunrise—much of the Park Loop Road is closed for the winter. I guess I could snowshoe up the mountain, before sunrise, but I’m really not that kind of girl.

I went walking around town this morning, to see if I could show you how much snow we have. I could hear the ice tinkling up to the shore as the tide came in.

Happy Winter!

2007-12-23T14:00:00.001-05:00

I do hope, wherever you are, that winter and the holidays find you happy and cozy.

A healthy, peaceful, utterly satisfying 2008 to you all. Here's hoping we see you in Blue Hill in the new year.

All the best,
Sarah

Magic in the air

2007-12-19T08:21:00.000-05:00

I drove to Ellsworth last week for a business meeting on a morning when it was only 9 degrees. I had to stop in Surry and take pictures of the sea smoke.

The following day I went to Deer Isle, to Stonington, and had breakfast at the Harbor Cafe—have you tried a grilled muffin? O decandent. It was even a bran muffin, and it was still decadent.

I met with Capt. Bill Baker, my pal from Old Quarry Ocean Adventures. Do you wonder what people like him do in the winter? He works on marketing, tries new recipes (duck hunters rent from him this time of year and often share with him—he even sent me home with some. My friend Karen loves duck and loves to cook so I’m planning a meal with her), and is building a bunk house. He also reminded me what great kayaking we have in this area—I’ve taken it for granted as it’s the only place I’ve ever been kayaking. It was 42 degrees as I drove up to Old Quarry and the snow was mushy underfoot, fickle Maine.

I stopped at the Sleigh Bell Shoppe and Lobster Crate on my drive back, doing a quick U-turn after seeing the “Fresh scallops” sign. While there, I picked up a copy of Little Yellow Boatie, by Helen Sylvester, the sweetest Maine children’s book this year. I also bought A Record of Early American Wall Stencils Found In Blue Hill Maine and Nearby, plus some gift tags designed with them. I also bought some Christmas gifts and a pound of fresh scallops. The resulting chowder was so delicious I couldn’t believe I hadn’t bought gallons more.

Back in Blue Hill, I went on a walk with Julie who likes her off-season job so much, I may not be able to lure her back to waitressing at the inn. We stopped off at Ginger Manna’s Bella Colore, a shop filled with everything from beads to Mexican tin ornaments to funky hair ties and great jewelry and it's less than two blocks from the inn. I bought a few presents—for others not myself!—look how sweetly she wrapped them. I put my name on her mailing list for craft classes this winter. Maybe this is the year I do something with all the glass beads I can’t resist buying.

New York cousin Stephanie goes out almost every night and wondered how often Blue Hill cousins go out. Starting with Friday night, this has been my evening social life: Dinner at Margaret and Barbara’s (see Oct. 22’s blog entry) with Jim and Marcia Schatz, who own the Blue Hill Farm Country Inn, and Ralph Pettie, who the following day was a member of the trio who gave a dramatic/comedic reading of A Christmas Carol at the public library. The gals of Gallery 66 always serve delicious things. This time they introduced me to pappadews and even sent me home with a jar. On Saturday I started at the Blue Hill Public Library’s Christmas party—as I walked in, I could smell wood smoke from the fireplaces on opposite ends of the main hall. Pine boughs graced every surface and provided a backdrop for twinkling lights and plates of goodies. When was the last time someone read aloud to you? I adore it and having these men read the Christmas Carol was truly a treat. That evening I had to decide between a sing-along of Handel’s Messiah at the Blue Hill Congregational Church and Aunt Mae’s Cabaret at the Town Hall. Luckily they and the inn are within a block of one another so I listened to the beginning of the Messiah (and "listened" is the correct verb. I never did well in chorus) and then dashed across the street to catch some of the local talent in the cabaret. On Sunday, I went to Bar Harbor on the early side to avoid the snowstorm. I stayed with my friend BobbieLynn Hutchins, who owns the Café Bluefish and is an amazing cook, as she was hosting a dinner party. I had every intention of seeing the sun rise over Cadillac Mountain but the snowstorm turned into a rain storm and the roads became ice skating rinks. Monday night (are you already a bit exhausted by my social life?!), I said no to playing bridge with friends to go to the Wescott Forge as they were hosting a chamber of commerce business after hours event. Check out contractor John Ruger’s Blue Hill “cover model” house.

Then on Tuesday, I dined at the Barncastle, in front of one of the fireplaces, on a great spinach salad and spelt-crusted pizza with artichoke hearts and feta, before dashing to the George Stevens Academy’s holiday concert. Tonight I’ll sit in front of my own fireplace and wrap some presents.

The other day, cold and crisp, I had to walk down Parker Point Road and take pictures to show you how beautiful it is. Don't forget--we have the Cape House available all year--it could be you strolling along here...

The Big Snow! And Chowder vs. Stew

2007-12-03T19:07:00.000-05:00

I'm in the midst of my first snowstorm at the inn. I woke to "little snow, big snow" an adage that suggests if the flakes are small, the piles will be large. This morning the flakes were tiny! I walked through town a few times running errands in a very quiet village. We've been plowed out and James the Plower will be taking very good care of the guests in the Cape House, should any ever get snowed in. And what a treat being snowed in here is--the crackling fireplace, the cozy duvets, the solitude. And if you'd like, we'll put flannel sheets on the bed. We've gotten about 10 inches and it's still coming down.

You know you're in Maine when... On Friday night I drove to the Franklin Street United Methodist Church in Bucksport (which is on the Penobscot River and home to that Penobscot Narrows Bridge I'm so fond of). I had read in the Weekly Packet, the local paper we give to guests at the inn, that the church was holding a lobster stew dinner followed by Mt. View Chamber Singers performing carols in the round. What an absolutely magical evening.

Stew vs. Chowder

You need to know before reading any further that I can’t keep a secret. If you really truly want something to stay a secret, please don’t tell me. See, someone once told me her mother's secret for the best chowder ever, ever.

But do you even know the difference between seafood chowder and seafood stew? (And by seafood I mean haddock or scallop or lobster or clam or various combinations.) You need to know because you can usually find them on the menu in Maine and the smarter you look when you're ordering, the more respect the Mainers'll have for you, and they're so good you must order them.

I'm pretty sure that Linda Greenlaw has a recipe or two in her cookbook but I gave my copy away and haven't gotten a chance to replace it yet. I could wait until I finished all my research on stew vs. chowder before I started talking to you all about it but I'm too impatient for that.

So, stew will have seafood and milk or cream, and that's about it. This recipe sounds like what I feasted on Friday night--oh it was tasty. With a chowder, a person could and should throw in some onions and potatoes. You can get fancy, like this fish chowder recipe, or keep it really simple. In the summer, I like to grill fish along with potatoes that I've washed and then coated pretty heavily in a seasoning mix like Montreal Steak Seasoning and onions that I fold into foil with some olive oil. I make enough for leftovers which I throw into a pot with some stock and milk and yum! Fish chowder. I think pepper is a key ingredient. Brooke Dojny--in her Dishing Up Maine cookbook--adds in fresh thyme.

A few great sounding recipes:
Clam Chowder
Fish Chowder
Shrimp and Scallop Stew

So, the secret. See, I think good things should be shared. But I can't seen to put it out here in black and white. If you want to know how to make the best chowder ever, ever, drop me an email and I'll whisper it to you. Though one secret is to have someone make it for you--I find it always tastes better then.

Check out this article from The New York Times, a piece—Sea Sends Distress Call in One-Note Chowders—on Dick Bridges and a local organization, PERC, which is working hard to “secure a future for our fishing communities.”

Are you shopping for Christmas presents? If so, Catch a Piece of Maine sounds like a fabulous present! Maine lobster from your own trap—and you can pick your lobsterman! I pick this one. He has a handsome boat, too.